Jenn's Paris Adventure

Paris in Winter

2010-01-19T15:13:00.004+01:00

New Years Eve 2009

2010-01-18T15:26:00.017+01:00

I rang in the new year with some wonderful friends. We started the evening with Texas style chili and gluten-free chocolate chip cookies, mixed that with a little travel planning, astrology and aerodynamics (see below), then headed off for the countdown at the Eiffel Tower. Finally, the night ended with some hot chocolate and a walk home.

Christianity in Istanbul

2009-12-11T13:08:00.004+01:00

Three down and a few more to go...

The first two here are of the Church of St. George. In short this is the principal cathedral of the Orthodox Church and the seat of the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople and Ecumenical Patriarch (the head honchos). I cannot wait to go back to this place with my new camera!

These next four pictures are of the Church of St. Savior in Chora. It is a bit out of the way, but the breathtaking mosaics make it worth the trip (yes, these are mosaics, not paintings, that you see)! It is considered to be one of the most beautiful examples of a Byzantine church.

Consumption

2009-12-11T13:02:00.003+01:00

Among the first questions I always receive is, “What surprised you most about moving to France?” or “What do you not miss about living in the United States?” My answer to both of these questions is “consumption.” It is difficult to explain to Americans how different daily life is when norms for consumption are completely different. As an American living in the States (with strong values of conservation and moderation) I thought I knew the meaning of “doing without” and “living simply” but at the end of the day it was a choice I made. Because, really, if there was anything I wanted, it would be available immediately and at an affordable price. I have found that in France this is NEVER the case, with the exception of a few things like cheese, yogurt, chocolate and wine.

Case in point :-) One of the first items I set out to purchase in France were paper towels. I searched and searched the store, not finding any. Then finally, I found them, but there was only 1 choice (I was expecting an entire aisle), and this one option cost the equivalent of $6 USD for a roll of 6. I made up my mind right then that I would use these carefully. I got home and placed one of the rolls in my American sized paper towel holder (images below). Back home a roll would have filled this completely and stood 4 inches higher, but you can see the results for yourself. I resolved myself to using these carefully.

Fast forward 10 months: there is a mess in the microwave that needs to be cleaned, and the holder is empty. I find that I do have 1 roll stashed at the top of a closet, and it is the last roll of the original package of 6.

Istanbul & Islam

2009-10-25T15:30:00.012+01:00

According to Wikipedia, "Islam is the religion articulated by the Qur'an... An adherent of Islam is a Muslim, meaning "one who submits (to God)."

Lucky for me, I was in Istanbul during Ramadan, which is the Islamic month of fasting and prayer. Many people travel to the big mosques in Istanbul during this month, and there are big parties with music and food at night.

Although Turkey is a democratic, secular state, Muslims make up 98% of the population, with the majority of these being from the Sunni sect.

5 times each day Muslims are called to pray; the result is a haunting and beautiful voice filling the city (with help of loud speakers). Originally the prayer was called from minarets at each mosque, seen in the picture above.

The first set of pictures are of the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, commonly referred to as "The Blue Mosque" for its blue Iznik tiles. It was built between 1609 and 1616.

This next set of pictures are of Hagia Sophia. Built between 532 and 537 as an Orthodox basilica during the Byzantine empire, it was later turned into a mosque by the Ottomons in 1453. Today it is a museum with some very unique and valuable mosaics still being uncovered.

This is a fountain, one of many, which once served Muslim pilgrims. After many days of journey they would wash and drink from the fountain. Water plays a central role in the Islam faith, as it is the origin of all life on earth. "Cleanliness is half of faith," the Prophet tells his companions in one of the hadiths. Washing before each prayer (ablution) is required, as prayers carried out in an impure state are not valid.

Restaurants & Food in Istanbul

2009-09-24T11:48:00.006+02:00

This is the first of a series of entries about my vacation in Istanbul. There is so much to share about this wonderful city, and of course I will start with the food :) I highly recommend all of the restaurants seen below.

The origin of Baklava is claimed by many ethnic groups and variations of this rich dessert are popular through Turkey, the Balkans, and much of Central Asia. The turkish variety can be made of pistacios or walnuts; I prefer walnuts. The thought of diet baklava made me want to vomit, but I still found the concept interesting.

Albura Kathisma Restaurant is located in the heart of old town. The meal was our first experience at Turkish cuisine. The food was very traditional and tasty.

The mashed-potato-looking stuff below is actually pureed eggplant. It has the consistency of gluey paste, but tastes devine.

For our departure dinner we at at this "Green House. "

This assorted appetize plate is very typical of Turkish cuisine: stuffed eggplant and two kinds of beans. We all agreed that the preparation and seasoning of the beans cannot be beat.

This main course was stuffed olive leaves. I was pleasently surprised because it tasted nothing like the dish you find in Greek restaurants (of course it was much better).

I do not have any pictures of the food at this restaurant, but it is a must for lunch. There are 2 meats to choose from: beef meatballs or lamb kabobs. Most of us agreed that the meatballs were the best choice. You cannot go wrong with the bean salad as a starter and semolina helva for dessert.

Located on the Asian side of Istanbul the çiya chef provided us a feast for lunch. The owners have 3 locations, each with a different atmosphere.

http://www.ciya.com.tr/index_en.php

The Pudding Shop was another favorite among our group for lunch. Our meal there, pictured below, was a bit pricey compared to others, but the taste made the cost worth it. The custard rice pudding is a must.

Jakarta, Indonesia

2009-09-01T21:21:00.004+02:00

Unfortunately while in Jakarta I worked quite a bit (yes there IS a downside to travel). Be that as it may, I had a very wonderful dinner with colleagues at Dapur Babah élite. Below are just a few of the meals we enjoyed. In addition to the food, the atmosphere and service was top notch.

My eggplant, tofu, and yellow curry dish with a side of satay and rice - very traditional Indonesian.

I don't remember what this was, but doesn't it look appetizing?

Another appetizing but nameless dish.

I know for sure this was some sort of duck.

No surgeon general's warning in Indonesia. They just flat out tell you that it kills you, and in case you don't believe it, they also show you a pair of black lungs, with an arrow pointing to a cancerous area.

And in case you still decide to smoke, you can always go for the ones individually wrapped in gold.

Lisboa

2009-08-16T16:53:00.004+02:00

There is soooooo many wonderful things about this city: the people, culture, weather, food, architecture, and beaches :)

Here is how to duplicate my perfect weekend…

1 day & night in Cascais
1 day & night in Belém or Alfalma (Lisbon)
1 day & night in Sintra

Cascais is centrally located between all three areas and would be a nice home base, but hotels can be rather pricey; the primary attractions of this seaside town are the quaint and beautiful beaches.

Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; if you are into architecture or shopping, you do not want to miss this town. It sits nestled on a hillside, accessible by a steep, winding, narrow cobblestone road that will make your stomach churn, but is completely worth the ride.

Belém is a waterfront neighborhood west of the city center; the Museu Colecção Berardo, located in the Centro Cultural de Belém, while small, is an essential visit for anyone remotely interested in modern art – it is very well done. Also in Belém don’t miss the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos and the world famous Pastéis de Belém. There are several museums to see in Belém if you have the time.

Saturday & Tuesday mornings in Alfama bring Feira da Ladra (Thieves Market) – you have to wade through a lot of junk, but there are gems to be found. I was able to snag some one-of-a-kind jewelry for a really good price – a find like this makes wading through the junk totally worth it! Also in Alfama is the Museu do Azulejo (National Tile Museum) and the Castelo de São Jorge, both not to be missed. I am told the Sé de Lisboa is the oldest church in the city and a site worth seeing, though I was not able to make it there myself.

If you are staying in Portugal longer than 3 days, spend one more day in Lisbon, and then head Southwest or Northwest to the sandy beaches! Bon voyage

Berliner Style

2009-07-21T21:35:00.003+02:00

Berlin Day 4

2009-07-14T23:10:00.010+02:00

Last day in Berlin and feeling the effects of yesterday's sun; no matter what I do to prevent it, I always end up ill after being in the sun more than a couple of hours, and this day was no exception. But I made it out to the final muesum on my list, the Pergamonmuseum. The Pergamon houses original-sized, reconstructed monumental buildings such as the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus and the Ishtar Gate, all consisting of parts transported from the original excavation sites.
Antiquity Collection

Islamic Art

More Islamic Art

From ancient Babylonia

For my lovely Leos out there (you know who you are)

Over the course of 4 days I did and saw everything that I wanted to while here. There were definitely a few things I missed that will see when I come back some day. Would like to spend some more time in Eberswalder Strasse, go to the top of the dome in the German Parliament, and see the DDR museum.

Berlin Day 3

2009-07-14T22:52:00.006+02:00

Checkpoint Charlie

If you know of Fat Tire Bike Tours, you know they are the best way to see a city; they have tours in Paris, London, Berlin, and Barcelona, and they are a great way to see a city and meet interesting people along the way. On day 3 I took the Berlin City tour; theme for the day was WWII and Cold War. Took many pictures on the tour, but only 2 made it to the blog.

The German Parliament Building

An older part of the wall

Several shots from East Side Gallery (currently being painted for 20 anniversary); I walked this 1km stretch of the wall after the bike tour ended.

After seeing the wall I headed over to the Jewish Museum; I really wish I had more time and energy to take advantage of this wonderful museum. Everything is just very well done, chocked full of interesting history and delivered in many different mediums so that one does not get bored. But it was the end of a long day for me and I just didn’t have the energy to soak it all in. I did learn several new things though, and for the small 5€ entry fee, it was totally worth the trip. The museum also has a nice restaurant on site, which is where I had dinner. I highly recommend this museum.

Berlin Day 2

2009-07-14T15:58:00.009+02:00

On day 2 the 4:30 AM sunrise woke me up (ugh). After breakfast took the tube over to Alexanderplatz where I met up with Fat Tire Bikes for an all day tour of Potsdam. We picked our bikes (mine was Janis Joplin) and got on the train for the 40 minute ride out of Berlin. Here are some stops we made in Potsdam...

The New Palace

The Orangerie

The Tea House

Sans Souci Palace

Cecilienhof (location of Potsdam Conference, 1945)

I missed the grave of Frederik the Great, but I did get to see Potsdam's famous nude beach.

After getting back to the city I headed out for dinner and the modern dance show in Eberswalder Strasse. This is a very interesting community that reminds me a lot of Uptown in Minneapolis, however there was an element of gypsy that I was not expecting. Next time in Berlin I want to spend more time in this area.

The dance was definitely the highlight of the trip, simply amazing, spell binding, and worthy of many, many awards. Never in my life have I been so captivated by a dramatic production, and it was just so well done, just so well done. I highly, highly recommend this show. Below is the website; I saw les possédés.

http://www.toula.de/

Berlin Day 1

2009-07-14T15:41:00.007+02:00

Flew into Berlin and checked into the Sofitel Gendamenmarkt; very nice room over looking Gendamenmarkt Square. Took a cab to Gemaldegalerie (painting muesum) which had some magnificent old works in a modern building; ticket also gave access to Kunstgewerbemuseum (museum of applied arts); recommend 2-3 hours to see both museums.

After a stop at the gift store, headed back to hotel by foot via Potsdamer Platz; here I received a visa from old East Germany with all the stamps. Continued walking and came upon the Memorial for the Murdered Jews of Europe, very moving.

Made it back to the hotel where I freshened up before leaving for the organ concert Berliner Dom. The music was magical and the church was amazing - a perfect way to end my first day.

Weekend in Reims

2009-05-16T15:00:00.011+02:00

I spent last weekend in Reims with two of my favorite people that I worked with in Dallas. We stayed in quaint Hotel Crystal and played the role of tourist in every way. I discovered that the Basilica of St. Remi (seen above) is my new favorite church, and I highly recommend it, even more than the cathedral. Dinner one night at Brasserie Flo was just top notch; food, atmosphere, and service left nothing to be desired. And a good lunch can be found at Cafe Lorraine, again good food and service. There is one particular brasserie that I will not name on here that I caution you against; if you are going to Reims and want that information just email me.

Reims is in the heart of champagne country, where grapes that go into champagne are made. I learned at the Mumm Champagne House tour that there are only 3 kinds of grapes that go into champagne: chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, and they are all grown in this particular region of France. In the end it was so nice to get out of the city for a couple of days, and I had plenty of opportunity to flex my French speaking muscles. Very nice weekend. All pictures below are of the basilica and its accompanying abbey.

And always here is the latest grocery list. You might notice that I am getting better at finding deals. (don't look at the 7E bottle of mixed spices)

French Culture

2008-10-12T19:23:00.008+02:00

This is MY recommended list of essential books and movies for understanding French culture. I have personally read/watched each of these and found them entertaining and educational. I recommend these books and movies for anyone who is planning a visit to France or just interested in the French culture. I have spent a lot of time trudging through other very educational sources, but if I found them too dry or too fictional they did not make this list.

Books
A Year in the Merde by Stephen Clarke
In the Merde for Love by Stephen Clarke
French or Foe by Polly Platt
Almost French by Sarah Turnbull
French Toast by Harriet Welty Rochefort
Is Paris Burning? by Larry Collins & Dominique Lapierre
Return to Paris by Colette Rossant

Movies
Moliere (en subtitles)
Queen Margot (en subtitles)
Napoleon - 4 Part Series
Joan of Arc w/ Leelee Sobieski